Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Send Train - Ryan

So, I went out climbing the past two days after my classes had concluded for the day. Yesterday I was itching to climb outside, but was still pretty fatigued from being up for about 24 hours due to traveling back to the east coast and what not. However, I decided it was too nice of a day not t get outside and play around on some rocks. My last class ended at 4:30 and Leanna and I headed out to Blowing Rock shortly after that. I hadn't been on Room with a View (V10) since last semester and decided I wanted to work that some. We hiked straight to Room with a View and Leanna told me about some beta that she had been trying to use for the crux move. It involved a left heel hook instead of the usual right and made the move feel sooo much easier. I was able to do the crux move and top it out right away! I was feeling psyched that I had found new beta that made the problem feel much easier. However, after trying the problem from the start a few times, and falling at the crux, I began to feel very fatigued and couldn't do moves that had felt easy 30 minutes before. I figured the fatigue was due to lack of sleep and decided to pack it up and come back for the send on a fresh day. I am psyched to get back out and try to put this problem down! By this time it was dark and we made one more stop at Desperate Bitch (V8), which neither of us tried much, before heading out for the night. We made plans to go to the Upper Area at Grandmother today around 3:00. We met my friend Taylor and his friend Nate out there. First stop was Raw Meat sit (V9). The start move wasn't as sharp and painful as I had expected and I was able to flash the crux move into the start jug of Raw Meat (V7). First go I fell on the 7 section and sent the problem a few goes later after figuring out the big move. After that, I tried a variation to Novocain (V6) which does the Raw Meat low move, then goes into Novocain. I was told that it clocked in at 10, but after flashing the problem I didn't think that felt right. The problem did involve some difficult moves on very sharp holds, but V9 seems like a more realistic grade for the variation. I was psyched on having sent two 9's in just a handful of attempts and the rest of the gang was making great progress of Raw Meat sit. Taylor was next to send Raw Meat low! A little bit later a Nate - Leanna send train happened! It was so cool to have everybody send the problem. Next, Leanna and I headed down to try Clamper (V8) while Nate and Taylor hiked out for the day. Clamper is a short slopey/pinchy problem, and it was nice to not be on sharp crimps. At first it felt hard, but then the beta just clicked and I sent in a handful of attempts! It was now getting dark and we made one last stop at Nintendo Thumb (V7/8). This problem is another Boone crimper problem and has two different starts. The higher start (on the Nintendo Thumb crimp) is a 7, while the two move lower start is an 8. For the low start I basically had to lay down to establish and move....that's how low it is. I was not psyched at all on this start and decided the slightly higher start would be a much more fun problem. After giving up on the super low, sharp start I sent it from the V7 start. At this point both Leanna and I were happy with our day's and hiked out of the woods to return another day. It's supposed to rain the next two days in Boone, but luckily I'll be setting for the App State competition! I hope that I will be able to take advantage of Saturday's nice weather and get outside to climb...Room with a View perhaps?

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